Resources for Anna's costume (Disney Lorcana design)
This page will gather all the materials, patterns and resources I used to create my Anna cosplay, from the TCG Disney Lorcana (edited by Ravensburger). I hope it will help you make your own knight costume, or simply give you some inspiration for your next costume project.
I also made a YouTube video, in French with English subtitles, where I walk you through the entire creative process behind this costume, from the first steps to the final result.
You can watch the full cosplay tutorial on my YouTube channel or directly below ⬇️
references I used
references I have drawn
Pattern for the dress
I drafted the entire pattern based on my interpretation of the original design.
The pattern is inspired by medieval clothing patterns, but with a more modern construction. It would also work really well for Ren Faire costumes, fantasy costumes, or even Star Wars costumes.
The pattern comes in one size, so you will need to adjust it to your own measurements before cutting your fabric.
Link for the pattern3D models
I created the 3D models for the shoulder armor, sword, and shield.
I printed all of the pieces using Sunlu PLA+ filament.
I decided not to release the sword and shield 3D files because they were specifically designed to fit the build volume of my 3D printer. I don’t want to modify them to accommodate a wide range of different 3D printer bed sizes, so the files are not available for download. Also, it would need a lot of retakes on it as I had a tight deadline so it’s not perfectly 3D modeled.
I did, however, make the shoulder armor 3D models available, as I think they could work really well with a variety of other costume designs, especially fantasy and Ren Faire costumes.It is also perfect of your OC, especially paladin characters.
I reworked them to be easy to print and work with 🙂
Link to the shoulder armors' 3D model
Foam patterns
For the leg patterns, I used Kamui’s leg pattern collection. You can get it here.
I modified the back by cutting away part of the pattern and adding eyelets so I could lace it up. I also drafted the ankle section myself.
For the chest armor, I used a modified version of Kamui Cosplay’s pattern. I added the details and pointed shapes to the front sections, and changed the angle of some of the lines to 45°. You can get her original pattern here.
The hip armor pattern was drafted entirely by myself. Unfortunately, I no longer have the pattern, so I can’t digitize it or make it available.
All the leaf details were 3D modeled and 3D printed. This allowed me to create exactly the same shape for every leaf and keep the pattern consistent across the costume. I printed them using Sunlu PLA+ filament.
Once printed, I gently heated each piece and shaped it to match the curve of the foam armor before gluing it in place.
the wig
I didn’t have the budget for the perfect wig…
The best ones I found were from Secret Honey, but they were almost €100 each.
So I decided to go for a cheaper one from AliExpress instead.
The color was really pretty, so I was pleasantly surprised by how well it worked for the costume.
Link to the wig I used
The blue fabric
THE BLUE FABRIC
I chose a natural fabric because I wanted to give the costume a slightly historical feel, so I decided to use linen. It is comfortable to wear and lightweight, which makes it a great choice for summer. I wore this costume at Japan Expo, where temperatures can get particularly high in France, so having a breathable fabric was really important.
The only downside is that linen wrinkles quite easily, so it needs to be ironed regularly.
I bought the fabric from a French website called Les Coupons de Saint Pierre, which specializes in fabric cuts and remnants from fabric rolls. This means that the exact fabric may no longer be available on their website, so don’t be surprised if you can’t find it!
I used 3 meters of it (for the right side + the lining)
Link to the blue fabric I usedthe purple fabric
I had a hard time finding the right shade of purple. I wanted the fabric to have a subtle sheen to reference Anna’s royal status. I also like mixing matte and shiny fabrics, as I think the contrast gives the costume more depth and makes the different fabrics stand out.
That’s why I decided to look for dupioni. Since genuine dupioni silk is quite expensive here in France, I opted for a faux dupioni fabric instead.
After hours of searching, I found the perfect fabric on Etsy, from a shop based in the UK! It was still fairly expensive once shipping costs and taxes were added, but it was much cheaper than genuine dupioni silk.
Link to the purple fabric I used
Painting the 3D prints
I’ve listed most of the products I used below.
I also have tutorial videos on my social media showing my process for painting 3D prints, but I’ll do my best to summarize the main steps here.
Preparing the 3D prints
First and foremost, you need to sand your prints. I usually start with 80-grit sandpaper to remove most of the visible layer lines. I then gradually move to finer and finer grits, going all the way up to 1000 grit.
I wash the pieces with water between each grit to remove any sanding residue or dust that could cause scratches when moving on to the next step.
I also use filler to repair imperfections or fill in gaps when needed.
Once I’m happy with the surface, I prime everything. It’s important to make sure that your primer is compatible with the type of paint you’re going to use. If you’re unsure, using a primer from the same brand as your paints is usually a safe choice.
Painting the 3D prints
When it comes to painting, I like to work from dark to light. I also start with a base coat that establishes the undertone I want for the final color.
For gold tones, I usually start with a red or brown base to create a warm undertone. For silver or blue parts, I use cooler colors such as blue as the base.
I mostly paint with an Iwata airbrush. I also use spray paint for the first base coat when appropriate.
For Anna’s armor, I didn’t add any weathering. Instead, I focused on shading the colors to give the pieces more depth and definition.
Once everything is painted, I apply a clear coat with the finish I want. At the time, I used a satin varnish. If I were to remake the costume today, I would probably go for a gloss finish instead, as I think it would emphasize the magical effect of the armor.
The sword
Last but not least, the sword!
I printed the blade using transparent PLA and reinforced it from the inside with UV resin. I then painted it with transparent paints to preserve the translucent effect.
Inside the blade, we installed an LED circuit to make it light up. The battery is hidden inside the handle, keeping the electronics completely concealed while still allowing the blade to glow.
Painting the foam armor
I’ve listed most of the products I used below.
I am not a foam expert, as it is a material I don’t particularly enjoy working with. That being said, sometimes foam is a better choice than 3D printing because it is lightweight and flexible. This makes it particularly useful for areas that need to move or bend, for example.
Preparing the Foam
I worked with foam from Cosplayshop. I mostly used 5mm and 2mm high-density EVA foam, as well as their pre-cut foam bevels for adding details.
I glued the pieces together using neoprene contact glue and used Kwik Seal to fill and smooth the seams.
I closed the chest armor and shoes using rivets and lacing, while I attached the hip armor with Velcro.
Painting the Foam
One important thing to know when working with EVA foam is that it can “drink” a lot of product. In other words, it acts like a sponge and absorbs a lot of whatever you apply to it. You need several coats before the surface stops looking like foam.
There are cheaper ways to prime EVA foam than the method I used, but I was working with a tight deadline, so I went for the easiest option. I used Plasti Dip in spray cans. I honestly can’t remember how many coats I applied, but it was a lot. And even then, if I had had more time and budget, I would have applied even more!
As you are working on a flexible surface, you need to work with a flexible primer. That’s why I don’t use the same for 3D prints than for foam.
Once the primer has fully cured, you can start painting. The better the foam is primed, the smoother and easier the painting process will be.
For the paint, I followed the same process as I did for my 3D-printed parts and used the same paints, so the foam and 3D-printed pieces would match.
For the final finish, I used Lukas Satin Varnish, applying three coats.
